Review ingredients are used in formula by our company
СО2-extracts of plants (Extract Oil-SC-[CO2])
Many of the processes of active substances extraction from plants held at high temperatures close to 100 °C, at which some vitamins and other biologically active substances (BAS) are destroyed. The most modern and efficient way to select nutrients from plants is CO2-extraction.
At temperature of 31,4 ° C and 73.8 atm. carbon dioxide (CO2) transfers into the super fluid state of vibe. In this state, carbon dioxide is highly soluble fatty and essential oils, carbonyl compounds, fat-soluble vitamins, sterols. Moreover, all BAS extracted in its natural state and in the same quantitative ratio in which they are located in the natural raw materials. After the process pressure is reduced, the carbon dioxide transfers into the gaseous state and evaporates. The extract contains 100% active ingredients in the complete absence of any solvents.
Regarding the concentration of substances contained in it, and then we can safely say that there is no analogue of classical extracts. For example, a water-alcohol-glycerol chamomile contains 5 BAS (biologically active substances), propylene glycol extract - 7 of BAS, and supercritical CO2-chamomile extract contains a set of 16 biologically active substances. Due to this high concentration for cream effectiveness is enough to enter 0,01-1% CO2-extracts, while casual extracts input is necessary 1-20%. For this reason the ingredients are listed in descending order, and CO2-extract is at the end of the list.
Mink oil (Mustela)
Mink oil is produced by rendering fat mink. At temperature 40 °C is a transparent mass of straw-yellow to light brown in color with a weak specific odor.
Mink oil well softens smoothes the skin, protects it from excessive loss of moisture, absorbs quickly and leaves skin feeling greasy. No irritation and allergic effects on the skin. Widely used in the nutrient creams, protective means against frost, anti-wrinkle creams.
Usually, the content of mink oil in cosmetic products does not exceed 10%. A higher content leads to an unpleasant smell, which is not masked by the scent.
Dyes (Color Index - CI)
There are a few classifications of dyes.
By solubility it is differenced water-soluble and slightly soluble.
• Water-soluble dyes contain sulfonate and carboxylic groups in molecule which are provided their solubility in water. Such dyes are widely used in washing means and water contained
emulsions.
• Oil-soluble dyes are non-polar molecules dissolve in oils and fats. Often used in the lipstick.
On chemical structure of dyes are classified as follows:
• Nitro-dyes have nitro-group NO2. These dyes are toxic and prohibited for use in cosmetics.
• Azo-dyes have azo-group -N=N-. The most frequently ones are used in the manufacture of lipstick, foundation, powder, nail polish sometimes.
• Triphenylmethane dyes are the most widely spread group of dyes. They are readily soluble in water, but change when exposed to light and alkalis. Used in the mascara, eyeliners, lipsticks, powders, shampoos and foam washing.
• Xanthane dyes are divided into acidic and basic. Xanthanes acid type are derived from fluorescein and give a high intensity staining. Rhodamine and, C and G are belonging to basic dyes. This group of dyes is widely used in decorative cosmetics. These dyes are poorly soluble in water but readily soluble in castor oil.
• Anthraquinone dyes obtained from natural products. An indigo is typical representative of one of the most ancient type of dyes.
By the application of dyes are classified:
• FD & C (abbreviation Food, Drug and Cosmetic) - for food, pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries;
• D & C - for the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries;
• Ext.D & C - for external use in pharmaceutical and cosmetic products.
An obligatory condition for the application of dyes in cosmetics is their safety.
In the Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 30 November 2009 on cosmetic products has a list of dyes that are:
- Approved for use in cosmetics;
- Limited use;
- Prohibited for use.
Assigned to each dye color index Colour Index (CI), which contains its chemical characteristics
The most commonly used dyes allowed:
• CI 42 090, the official name of the FD & C Acid Blue 1 - Blue Diamond. Belong to a group of triphenylmethane dyes. Permitted in food, pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries. Used for coloring in the food industry (ice cream, beverages, canned peas, packaged soups, candies, dairy products with a taste of blackberries.) Widely used in cosmetics (lipsticks, dishwashing detergent, shampoos, foam washing, gels for hair styling).
• CI 19 140, the official name of the FD & C Acid Yellow 5 - Tartrazine. Belong to a group of azo-dyes. Permitted in food, pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries. It is used in products such as drinks, chips, ice cream, candy, fruit jelly, lipsticks, creams, powders, creams, shampoos, etc.
• CI 19 225, the official name of the FD & C Acid Red 18 - Ponce 4P. Belong to a group of azo-dyes. Permitted in food, pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries.
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